Alles over Guilloché op horlogeplaten

Een geweldig verhelderend artikel hierover! :slight_smile:


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Ander artikel:

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En natuurlijk de Cotes de Geneve:

http://blog.thewatchenthusiast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/lm1_wg_engine_22.jpg

(2x klikken!!)

Breguet gebruikt trouwens voor al hun modelllen uitsluitend gouden wijzerplaten volgens mij. Ze voorzien deze na het guillocheren van een laag zilver of soms iets anders.

oeff @diverman dat is een goeie, zal ik na moeten kijken :slight_smile: thanks!!

Hier iets gevonden over de finishing… praten over mercury en goud inderdaad die gecoat kunnen worden :slight_smile:

Thus, for his brass plates and bridges, his consistent style featured fine graining (“grenaillage”).
Striking in its understatement and purity, the grenaillage finish
served not only Breguet’s anti-oxidation goals, but fit his distaste for
artificial decoration. For similar anti-oxidation reasons, he chose a
highly polished mirror finish (“poli mirroir”) for the steel
hammers of his repeaters. The bluing of screws, at first blush seemingly
mere decorative color design (which regrettably is the case with some
present day manufacturers who blue screws with paint), actually was
completely functional as the color was the result of heat treatment done
to harden the steel. The aesthetic finishing flourishes that today are
the mark of a timepiece of distinction were simply not within the
umbrella of his philosophy.
There has been an evolution in the thinking of watchmakers in the
nearly two hundred years that have followed Breguet’s lifetime. Strict
adherence to an ethic of applying only finishes that have functional
properties has been broadened by notions that the beauty of the movement
represents a substantial part of the value of fine watch. In turn, the
grenaillage finish employed by Breguet in his workshops two centuries
ago has been largely displaced by a rich palate of aesthetic finishes
that display the talent and craft of the watchmakers who create them.
Both business and technical reasons underlie the change in philosophy
that has transpired. During the 1800’s and well into the 1900’s there
was a great divide in the way many watches were built. The Vallée de
Joux, seen by most as cradle of Swiss watchmaking, was dominated by
movement builders. The end product of their labors was most often
largely undecorated movements containing all the principal plates,
wheels and bridge, and, as well, the complications, but lacking the
balance and escapement. These were then sold to watch companies in
Geneva who added the escapement, and in order to distinguish their
offerings, lavished newly created a esthetic forms of decoration on the
components. At the same time, the genaillage finish favored by Breguet
fell into disfavor because of its reliance on mercury. In order to
produce the finish, Breguet brushed the surface with aluminum powder
which reacted with the brass of the part transforming the previously
smooth surface into one with a finely powdered mat appearance. There
following, mercury was mixed with gold transforming the gold into a
slurry that could be used for coating the component. Finally, the part
would be heated to evaporate the mercury, leaving the gold coating on
the surface. Although the results were unusually robust— watches able to
resist corrosion for well over a hundred years—the reliance on mercury
gave abundant incentive to migrate to other finishing approaches.
The transition to new finishes did not happen all at once. There was a
period during which watch companies proposed different grades of
finishes to their clients. A given timepiece was, thus, offered with
“normal” finish, which addressed all of the functional needs or, at a
higher price, you saw that coming, a fine finish (termed “soignée”)
which added a full range of motifs to enhance the appearance of the
movement. Indeed, in some cases, a third grade, extra soignée was
offered. While this “would you like an economy ticket” or “would you
like to fly first class” approach to marketing may have had a certain
appeal during an era when watches were largely bespoke, today not only
would it clash with the sensibilities of collectors, but it would
corrode the standing of a grand marque. Who today would lust for an
haute horlogerie timepiece lacking aesthetic finishes on the movement,
done in the name of economy?
Today’s ethic of a full range of finishes bestowed upon the movement,
some done for functional reasons, some purely for beauty, is not only
thoroughly and inextricably interwoven with quality and value, but has
become a celebrated part of watchmaking tradition. For each one of the
finish motifs, historically well rooted rules now govern the particular
components upon which it may be used, the techniques and tools for
creation, and the notions of what is and is not an acceptable final
appearance.

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Alleen modellen met een alarm dus niet, verder zijn ze allemaal voorzien van een gouden wijzerplaat.

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Thanks!! :slight_smile:

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Daar word ik toch wel heel blij van, van dat vakwerk. Prachtig. Weer eens wat anders dan Rolex :cold_sweat:

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Voordat dit bommetje nu weer ploft, heel wat anders dan heel wat merken, Omega, Breitling, IWC en ga zo maar door.
Een zeer stijlvol merk voor de liefhebber, die verder ook liever niet opvalt. Heerlijk.

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Maar vooral heel wat anders dan Rolex.

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Echt heel fraai, ook hier (alleen eeuwig zonde van de 10Hz tekst).

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Zeker zonde. Kom wel vaker horloges tegen waar er naar mijn mening te veel tekst op de wijzerplaat staat. Echt jammer.

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Precies waarom ik een beetje verliefd ben op deze schoonheid:

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Sympathiek horloge. Maar IMHO is de wijzerplaat geperst & is het niet handmatig aangebracht.

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Dat klinkt aannemelijk. Thx for bursting my bubble :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Graag gedaan zou de verkeerde reactie zijn :wink: Maar troost je maar met de gedachte dat als het echt handwerk zou zijn, het horloge beduidend duurder zou zijn geweest. Wellicht het drie-dubbele of meer. En zo is hij toch ook mooi? :grinning:

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Even een bump voor dit mooie guilloche werk want in de tuin zie je ook mooi werk :smiley:
Moeder Natuur kan er ook wat van, slechts 8 weken noeste arbeid en dan krijg je dit

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