Zenith only (Deel 2)

Maar het is toch ook geen Poll over aantallen of over toe of afname van de vraag ? Vind je de 5e of 6e El Primero in een jaar ook nog bijzonder of heb je het wel gezien dan ? Wat doet het het met je niet financiele waardering voor het model of merk ?

Ik dacht dat ze al sinds 9/12 on sale waren.

Ik had je poll al beantwoord. Dat ik er geen probleem mee heb. Een “El Primero” verwijst naar het loopwerk en kent diverse modellen en kleur variaties. Het stoort me niet als er daar jaarlijks een paar bijkomen. Ook niet als het slechts een kleur variatie is. Maar dat is het zelden bij Zenith. Meestal zit er ook nog wel een andere materiaal keuze, vorm, speciale wijzerplaat of wat anders aan vast.

2 likes

Wat bedoel je precies? De vorige uitgave van de Cover Girl in samenwerking met Revolution? De nieuwste uitgave (Titanium) is inmiddels ook al weer van het web verwijderd. Misschien iets te vroeg ruchtbaarheid aan gegeven.

1 like

Nee ik zag dat de link met het aanbod van rond 9 december dateerde. In n maandje uitverkocht dus?

Nu, zenith maakt dus gelimiteerde versies in samenwerking met dit of dat bedrijf? Heel beperkt dan?
Zulke komen toch ook niet op de zenith website? Dan maakt het minder uit he.
En vooral voor de verzamelaars leuk.

Ik ga met de gedachtengang van @WatchWalker mee.

Dan begrijp ik niet welke link je precies bedoelt. Die Ti Cover Girl die @YY77 gisteren met ons heeft gedeeld is slechts sinds gisteren voor enkele uren online geweest. Toen verscheen er “sold out” en sinds vanochtend is de hele pagina verdwenen.

2 likes

Ja ok. Ik heb uit intresse wat gezocht, er was een artikel gedateerd 9/12 over dit model maar inderdaad quasi niks verder online. Wat op zich al vreemd is.

Ik zou dan even opnieuw moeten zoeken.

En es nagevraagd.

Maar de dame van The Rake mailde dit:

Voor wat t waard is.

Maar het maakt niet uit hoor, ik ga voor de A385.

2 likes

In 2019 hadden ze het plan om van 21k naar 25k productie te gaan:

En volgens de informatie over 2020 hebben ze in het corona jaar maar 11.000 stuks verkocht waarbij alle merken last hadden van verminderde productiemogelijkheden.

Dus ik verwacht dat ze in 2021 zo’n 20k of minder horloges gemaakt/verkocht hebben…voor een opschaling naar 40k zouden ze de faciliteiten en geschoolde medewerkers moeten verdubbelen of bij 1 van de zustermerken produceren of zoals ze al eerder hebben gedaan sellita uurwerken in eigen kasten stoppen…allemaal mindere opties wat mij betreft. Lekker klein blijven en niet te veel hype…

Op forums zoals hier krijg je altijd een extreem vertekend beeld van de werkelijkheid. Zenith is gewoon een piepklein merk…

2 likes

:+1:

Iemand deze wel ‘s in het echt gezien?
Bamford x Mr. Porter x Zenith…uit 2019

12 likes

Nee, wel gaaf. Een soort blauwe Safari. Gelukkig staat de Bamford naam er discreet op. Zou nog beter zijn met een donkere datumschijf. Je kan niet alles hebben…

1 like

Gevonden, (lancerings?) artikel in het magazine gedateerd 9/12/21.

3 likes

Voor degenen die geen inlog hebben op scribd

"The Rake
ZENITH X REVOLUTION & THE RAKE CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL A3818 ‘THE AIRWEIGHT COVER GIRL’
DEC 9, 2021
*ZENITH X REVOLUTION & THE RAKE CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL A3818 ‘THE AIRWEIGHT COVER GIRL’ *
by wei koh

O.K., so maybe at 78.2 grams, as opposed to last year’s steel watch at 110.6 grams, with a total weight saving of 32.4 grams, our latest collaboration is still not the most featherweight timepiece in the world when compared, for example, with such horological exotica as the Richard Mille RM 027. But what I can say is that it is the lightest watch with a full metal bracelet I’ve ever strapped on. And that is what is so cool about the Airweight Cover Girl. It looks like it will possess substantial heft on the wrist until you put it on, and you have a genuine, ‘Oh shit, that’s light’ moment, and that’s the very appealing dynamic contrast between how the watch looks and how it wears. This is probably aided considerably by the Gay Frères-designed, ladder-style bracelet, which omits every other traditional centre link. The watch is also distinguished from our 2020 Chronomaster Revival limited edition of 100 watches by the appearance of polished centre links.

Why did we do this? Partially because we wanted to give the wearer a visual clue that we’ve used grade 5 titanium for both the case of the watch and the ladder bracelet. Grade 5 titanium is the only quality of titanium that can be mirror-polished in this way, and it is the material selected for serious horological finery. Romain Marietta, Zenith’s dynamic Director of Product Development and Heritage, experimented with many different levels of polish for the ladder bracelet, but in the end we decided on just the centre links. He says: “I think this adds a beautiful sense of contrast with the brushed finishes and makes for a truly stunning watch. The polished centre links perfectly complement elements like the polished bevels of the watch, and the play over the light of these surfaces is amazing. At the same time, we wanted to use a slightly more aggressive brushing, so if you look at the sunray brushstrokes in the case of the watch, they really stand out in direct light. We took our time to develop the perfect evolution to last year’s Revival.”

As a testament to both Marietta’s and Zenith C.E.O. Julien Tornare’s commitment to innovation, neither balked at the idea of creating Zenith’s first full-grade 5 titanium ladder bracelet for our collaboration. Tornare says: “At Zenith, our tradition has always been to push boundaries, as we did all the way back in 1969 with the introduction of the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. We had used titanium for some of our A386 style cases, such as our Chronomaster Shadow limited edition, but, so far, not yet in a bracelet. We thought this would be the perfect time to try it. We love to work on limited editions that are ambitious and bring something of real value to collectors. I have to say this watch is simply amazing, and though we’ve made 250 pieces this time, I think it won’t be anywhere close to enough.”

The 2020 Chronomaster Revival A3818 Cover Girl
Speaking to Tornare reminds me of the launch of our Chronomaster Revival A3818 Cover Girl last year, which was the last watch event we attended before Covid changed our lives. We had all flown to Miami — Tornare from Le Locle in Switzerland; me from Singapore. We had reunited with hugs, slightly blearyeyed from our long trips. I asked Tornare, “Can I see the watch? I hear it’s amazing.” To which he replied: “Wei, I thought you were bringing the watch.” Which resulted in our realising that the watch was, in fact, sitting on Romain Marietta’s desk in Le Locle. Amusingly, we had thought of everything for the event except for bringing the prototype with us. To Tornare’s credit, and as a sign of his extraordinary resilience, he said, “It’s O.K., we will explain the watch in detail, we will give everyone a lot to drink, and I am sure we will sell all 100 pieces by the end of the night.”

The amazing thing was that he was right. So pent up was the desire from the collector community for a modern version of the A3818, a.k.a. the legendary Cover Girl — bestowed with this sobriquet from its appearance on the front of Manfred Rössler’s seminal book on Zenith — that once released, our watch sold very quickly online and at the event. So much so that an hour into the party, Tornare and I both toasted to the fact that every piece was spoken for. Each time someone asked to see the prototype of the watch, I would mumble something along the lines that it was probably with collectors on the other side of the room in Miami’s ultra-cool Supercar Gallery. One funny thing that happened was that, at the end of the night, my friend and vintage dealer extraordinaire Eric Wind showed up wearing a perfect vintage NOS (new old stock) A3818 on his wrist. He took it off to show it to me and, just then, two collectors walked by. Asking to see it, they mistook the watch for our new Revival and remarked, “Wow, it looks just like the original”.

Which brings up a good point. Our Revival, from last year, was not exactly like the original. Tornare says: “We agreed that even though we were making an homage to a legendary watch, and the single most valuable vintage Zenith chronograph on the market, we would not just make a facsimile of it. So even though we went through a lot of effort to get the Superman Blue right and even the colour of the Super-LumiNova to echo that of aged vintage tritium found on the original watch, we wanted to add a cool element that would immediately distinguish the new watch from a vintage one.”

Marietta adds: “We decided to make every single indicator on the Superman Blue dial luminous. Yes, that means every one of the marks on the ‘shark tooth’ scale, every indication in the pulsometer and tachymeter, all the sub-dials and even the hands on the sub-dials. Because some of these indexes are so small, it took a lot of trial and error to get this exactly right, but we managed it. If you shine a U.V. light on the Cover Girl Revival, the effect is amazing, as you see this incredible luminous light display.”

Tornare says: “I liked that this was immediately visible in daylight, and something that the 100 owners of that watch get to keep as a secret for themselves.”

The 50th anniversary homage
What exactly is the Cover Girl? Well, in 1969, Zenith presented the El Primero movement, the Swiss industry’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement vibrating at a blistering 5Hz. The movement was housed in two different style cases: a round model designated the A386, and two barrel-or tonneau-shaped models, dubbed the A384 and A385. In 1971, Zenith debuted an execution of the A385 that was destined to become a legend. That watch, named the A3818, featured the barrel case and an integrated ladder style bracelet created for Zenith by the most famous bracelet maker of the era, Gay Frères. It was also characterised by a vibrant Superman Blue dial featuring vertical brushing, a ‘shark tooth’ racing track that ran around the perimeter and a super-cool pulsometer and tachymeter. The scale worked such that you could read your pulse in 15 beats, and thereafter it was transformed into a tachymeter. Having played around with this quite a bit, I can report that the scale performs flawlessly for both purposes. Finally, the chronograph seconds hand was stoplight red and featured a small luminous paddle on it. The overall effect was to create one of the most unique and stylish sports chronographs of all time. Over the last half century, the Cover Girl has become the most coveted vintage Zenith chronograph, and examples of it now trade at just under $30,000.

Although Tornare, Marietta and I had collaborated on a Cover Girl Revival in 2020, we all recognised that 2021, which marks the 50th anniversary of this iconic model, would have to be a year we pulled out all the stops. As a follow-up to the steel watch with a fully luminous dial, we decided to pursue the direction of material innovation to create an even more wearable watch. We actually experimented with stealth versions of the watch, which included a fully sandblasted version. But in the end we wanted to stick to the look of the original watch for the 50th anniversary, and — spoiler alert — keep the more extreme version for a future follow-up.

Marietta says: “Once we established that the watch would be in grade 5 titanium, we had to ensure the finish of the watch was at the same level as the original, and that took some experimentation. At the same time, as I mentioned, the desire was to subtly improve the decoration.” We decided to make a larger number of watches this time, at 250 examples. Tornare explains: “We had something of a situation last year. There were a large number of unhappy customers that were frustrated that they couldn’t get the Cover Girl, and so this year we’ve made a larger allocation of the Airweight Cover Girl. But I fear we might have the same problem.”

To further distinguish the new Airweight Cover Girl, we decided to use pure white modern Super-LumiNova for the indexes, as opposed to the vintage themed colour from last year. The result to me is wonderfully clean and elegant. Having worn the Airweight Cover Girl for the last couple of weeks, its lightness, the beauty of its finish, and the faithfulness to Zenith’s iconic 50-year-old design have combined to make it one of my all-time favourite watches. I hope those of you who get one of these will feel the same way.

Zenith × Revolution & The Rake Chronomaster Revival A3818 ‘the Airweight Cover Girl’, in 250 examples, is offered at a price of CHF9,900.

ZENITH x REVOLUTION & THE RAKE CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL A3818 ‘THE AIRWEIGHT COVER GIRL’
REF 95.A3818.400/51.M3818

MOVEMENT Self-winding El Primero calibre 400; 50-hour power reserve

FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date, tachymeter and pulsometer scale

CASE 37mm; grade 5 titanium; water resistant to 50m

DIAL Blue satin-brushed dial; white Super-LumiNova filled indexes and hands

STRAP Grade 5 titanium Gay Frères ladder-style bracelet, and blue Cordura-effect rubber, included with pin buckle

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY CHF9,900; limited edition of 250 pieces"

Staat alleen geen introductie datum genoemd. :thinking:

2 likes

25 likes

Dank voor het delen, ook @YY77. ik vermoed dat dit artikel klaar stond om gepubliceerd te worden op een bepaalde datum in de nabije toekomst maar per ongeluk reeds verschenen is.

1 like

Net als per ongeluk de bestelpagina op de Rake maandag, ben benieuwd of mensen die de aankoop hebben gedaan op dat moment een annulering hebben gekregen per mail.

Macchiato girl?

23 likes

Ik voelde de bui al hangen… De revival manufacture edition stond al niet meer op de website na nieuwjaar en is blijkbaar ook niet meer te krijgen als ik Linda vd customer service mag geloven:

“The watch you are looking for is currently phased out…”

Ik zag wel ergens midden November een insta post van Zenith dat ze hem terug exclusief in de boutique zouden aanbieden aangezien die terug geopend was, dus misschien bedoelen ze dat…

1 like

Retourtje AMS-BSL in februari is maar ca. 70 euro, don’t ask me how I know.

3 likes